Winter in Chicago has been full of fun with Declan !And then there is Owen! Watching him become the best little brother has been a treat! I have spent two mornings a week catering to his every need ! I am so lucky to be able to have spent time with him. But “Don’t cry for me Argentina” I found South American summer in Argentina. I traveled with Christopher and Natalie and Mary and Eldon and a fun group of Backroads travelers.After many hours on the airplane we ventured out in Buenos Aires to Cafe Tortoni for lunch. This restaurant dates to the 1850s and was host to many artists and intellectuals over time. The walls are packed with paintings and photographs and the stain glass windowed ceilings are exquisite.We took a guided tour of the magnificent opera house. It was built in 1908 and underwent recent major renovation to make it one of the best opera houses in the world for acoustics. Because it is their summer, there were no operas to attend, but its on my list for a return visit! The Ateneo Grand Bookstore is unbelievable. It used to be the home of the Grand Splendid Theatre in 1919 and has been converted into a mesmerizing place to get lost in the stacks. The Casa Rosada is the official seat of the President of Argentina and is in the Plaza de Mayo. The balcony behind me was where Eva Peron gave her famous speech to the masses! After an informative and fun “Evita” tour of the city, we took in a tango show and dinner at La Ventana ! The music and dancing were amazing to witness and enjoy. The “Caminito” is located in the La Coca area and is a street museum of colorful painted houses typical of the immigrant dwellings of the late 1900s.Visiting as part of our city tour was delightful and gives one a realistic sense of the Argentina of the past. It truly was a melting pot of many peoples from Europe from very diverse backrounds. We left Buenos Aires and flew to San Martin de los Andes to meet our Backroads team and fellow travelers. Our first hike led us to a ranch above Lalo Lalog. The cool beer was welcome after the dusty hike and the “churipan” appetizer before grilled steak and potatoes was delicious !! The next day we hopped on our bikes and rode along Lacar Lake. The rivers and lakes in Patagonia are very clean ( water can be consumed without worry ) and you will appreciate the true blue color as these photos progress.We made a short stop off the road to appreciate a shrine to Gauchito Gil! He is an Argentinian Cowboy “Saint” There is quite a story and lore about his activities! This is the view of Lake Lacar from the top of the ride! This country is still protected !! The next day we went hiking through a nature preserve and had to cross a river to approach the falls. This time of year, the water is low and crossing was easy. Having to cross a river to reach the falls, cuts down on the visitors to this gorgeous spot to appreciate nature’s wonders. Mary managed to obtain a miniversion of “Mexican Train Game” so she could remind us AGAIN how good she is at winning the game!In spite of the rain, we hiked to another lake and learned all about the experience of preparing and drinking, Mate! This herbal mixture is consumed everywhere and at all times in Argentina. You can even see people pouring hot water from a thermos into their mate cup while riding a bike !. The next day we headed by boat to Victoria Island which is another national park. We hiked through groves of 100 year old trees. Many of the trees are not native to this area but the park is trying to return it to its native beauty over time. The “Overstory” is easy to appreciate. We hiked to this idyllic cove for a picnic lunch and to meet up with our boats to carry us to Barriloche.This is the view from my room ! The glacier is often covered in clouds and I was grateful to have seen it early in the morning. Another tough day of riding ( No eBikes on this trip) but spectacular views at the end We met at the Swiss colony for a class on making Empanadas ! We came away with the skills and the recipes and got to enjoy eating our delicacies.On our last morning, we hiked around Lake Moreno and the Llao Llao Resort and were mesmerized by these gnarly trees ! It was a fascinating trip and I have been reading much more about the country since my return. I look forward to returning but having Christopher as our personal Spanish speaking guide was very special.
